Seaside gardens are also referred to as coastal gardens or maritime gardens.
Perched as we are on the continental shelf, this gives the British Isles a temperate maritime climate overall. And as no UK garden is more than 75 miles from the coast, we should perhaps be more confident about seaside gardens.
However, even within the British Isles there is a range of climate variables for this maritime garden category. The two most obvious are : –
- mild, west coast
- exposed, east coast
which many of us are aware of. But then there are the other main, but more localised, elements affecting the garden –
- altitude
- latitude
- aspect, especially on sloping sites, southerly, northerly, etc
- soil – for example, sandy soils are more likely to suffer from frost
- salt laden air can effect some plant species as far inland as five miles
- prevailing wind
- openness / shelter – from cliffs, trees and buildings
- distance from the coast
- warming and cooling sea currents
And then there is the microclimate within the garden itself.
Any seaside garden is going to have its own mixture of the above which create both benefits and problems. Assessing the prevalent conditions in the garden has to be the first step. Then consider which existing plants are thriving and which are not.
Prevailing wind
Whilst the direction of the prevailing wind cannot be altered, some of the elements can be modified to create more amenable growing conditions.
What actions could be taken which will alleviate some of the problems and allow struggling plants to thrive instead? For example, creating a wind break to lessen the effect of strong prevailing winds. This could be a shelter belt of trees and larger shrubs, or it could be open fencing and netting. The trick is to let the wind filter through the barrier and be slowed down as a result.
Sea currents
Most of the western coast benefits from the warming influence of the Gulf Stream. There is a sub tropical garden on the west coast of Scotland – Logan Botanic Garden – that rivals those in the south west of England in its plant range. But these western coastal gardens may still have issues with northerly facing slopes or lakes that reduce temperatures for the planting there.
There are not many gardens as exposed as Derek Jarman’s at Dungeness. But the planting there and at Beth Chatto’s dry garden in Essex are good starting points if the garden under your jurisdiction has similar properties. For example, an exposed position to rough, drying winds, shallow soil, a minimal watering requirement.
Soil
Soil is a prime element of any garden. I suggest you refer to my articles on clay soil, alkaline soil etc within The Landscape Library when looking for planting ideas and as a cross reference for the lists below. There is no point in planting a shrub which will tolerate salt air if it hates the alkaline soil you’ve planted it in!
The Plants
Not a definitive list, just a selection. Not all members of a species will tolerate salt laden air or strong winds, so further research is up to you. I’ve tried to include some plants that may not have occurred to you as well as the more obvious ones.
As a general rule, look for plants with smaller leaves, leathery leaves, hairy leaves as these perennials are better suited to more adverse conditions.
Botanical Latin is also helpful – plants with ‘maritima’ and ‘littoralis’ in their name are definitely ones for a seaside garden!
Some previous stalwarts for seaside gardens – Rosa rugosa, Cotoneaster horizontalis, Crocosmia, Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae Rhamnoides) are not included. Although still sold, there are issues with their invasive tendencies and they are now on Schedule 9 in one or more countries of the UK. This doesn’t prevent the growing of them in a garden, but they must not be allowed to spread outside the perimeters.
The lists are alphabetical.
Evergreen Trees and Shrubs
Berberis
Cupressus macrocarpa, Monterey cypress
Elaeagnus
Escallonia
Griselinia littoralis
Hebe
Ligustrum vulgare, privet
Olearia
Pinus contorta, beach pine
Pinus radiata, Monterey pine
Pinus sylvestris, Scots pine
Pittosporum
Quercus ilex, holm oak
Santolina chamaecyparissus, cotton lavender
Taxus baccata, yew
Ulex europaeus, gorse
Deciduous Trees and Shrubs
Acer platinoides, Norway maple
Crateagus monogyna, hawthorn, both native white and pink flowered forms
Cytisus, broom
Fuchsia magellanica
Gingko biloba
Populus alba, white poplar
Populus serotina, black Italian poplar
Prunus spinosa, blackthorn, sloe
Rosa pimpinellifolia, burnet rose, Scots rose
Rowan, Sorbus aucuparia
Sambucus, native elder and Sambucus nigra, black elder
Tamarix, tamarisk
Ulmus carpinifolia, Guernsey elm and Cornish elm
Herbaceous Perennials, Smaller Perennials, Bulbous Perennials
Agapanthus
Argyranthemum frutescens
Armeria maritima, sea thrift
Cordyline Australis, cabbage palm (not a tree!)
Eryngium, Sea Holly
Geranium
Phormium
Sea Heather, Frankenia Laevis
Kitchen Gardens, Herb Gardens
With a bit of planning, a coastal kitchen garden can be highly productive. By growing in raised beds and creating windbreaks the number of productive plant species can be increased and a good crop achieved.
- Brassicas and root crops generally tend to do well.
- Tomatoes are probably best in a greenhouse.
- Choose fruit trees and bushes carefully, looking for varieties that have been bred and grown in coastal areas, as these will be easiest to care for.
In very exposed sites, expand your definition of edible plants to include shrubs with edible flowers and berries such as hawthorn, elder and sloe.
Cichorium intybus, chicory
Crambe maritima, sea kale
Lavendula, Lavender, L. angustifolia is generally hardier than stoechas
Malus, Apple
Oregano, marjoram
Pyrus, pear
Rosemary, Salvia Rosemarinus
Thymus, thyme
Vaccinium oxycoccos, cranberry
Vaccinium section Cyanococcus, blueberry
Ribes uva-crispa, gooseberry
Ribes, blackcurrant, redcurrant
Lastly, a quick note on gardening tools and equipment
Aluminium is less prone to rusting in salty air which makes it a good choice for the metal components of tools where possible.
Cleaning and oiling tools is probably even more important than usual.
Greenhouses, polytunnels and cold frames are essential to maximise the growing season. They need to be firmly secured, and preferably sited away from the prevailing winds to minimise storm damage.
Also be aware that wind and salt are likely to reduce the longevity of tools and structures, so repairs and replacements need to be allowed for within budgets.
Marie Shallcross
Plews Garden Design and Consultancy; Gardening Lessons